A Bucket-List Journey Through Papua New Guinea
Despite having travelled to over 90 countries, Dive Travel Consultant Jobi Chan was yet to visit Papua New Guinea – a stand-out destination which has long been on her bucket list. When the flight from Singapore landed in Port Moresby, her dream finally came true. Here she shares her journey through this diverse and untouched destination.
When I finally had the opportunity to visit this mystical land, a very difficult question came to me: where should I go diving in Papua New Guinea? This island country offers a great variety of diving and scenery, and I didn’t want to miss any of it. Kavieng in New Ireland is famous for its channels dive and pelagic species, while Tufi is a unique place in the word for both fjords and reef diving. I was also tempted by the extensive coral species at Kimbe Bay in New Britain. Ultimately, thanks to the network of flights, it was possible to visit all three on one incredible adventure.
Unique Diversity - Tufi Dive Resort
Gazing at the picturesque fjords as the charter flight descended onto the remote runway, I was struck by the mystical scenery. Tufi Dive Resort is nestled on the slopes of Mount Trafalgar, overlooking sheer rock cliffs and surrounded by lush rainforest.
The resort has been operational for over 30 years and offers unique diving from the pristine reefs, as well as from the dramatic fjords just footsteps away. Not to mention the night dive under the jetty, which is a mecca for macro photography. Luth and Ann, the hosts, welcomed us with coconut juice and big smiles. They always have a walkie-talkie in hand to communicate with the team and take care of every little detail, spoiling the guests so they can focus on diving.
I was lucky enough to experience muck diving on the house reef in the fjords on the arrival day, as well as night dive below the wharf. Some say the term 'muck diving' was invented in Papua New Guinea, and I could see why after the first day! Every conceivable species of goby, nudibranch, ghost pipefish, banded pipefish and a plethora of other fascinating creatures have made their home here.
The next day we headed out to the outer reef, home to over 20 reefs and bommies. July to September are the windy months on the outer reefs, so we planned to arrive in October, which generally offers the best visibility and water conditions for diving. The waters are teeming with spectacular marine life at Randol’s Reef, Keiko’s Reef and Honeymoon’s Reef. This is definitely the place to see pelagic species such as manta rays, schooling barracuda, Napoleon wrasse, tuna and turtles.
Alongside the diving, a visit to the local village to learn about the residents' local culture and daily life is definitely another highlight of staying at Tufi Dive Resort.
Feels Like Home - Lissenung Island Resort
Saying goodbye to Tufi, I headed to Kavieng in New Ireland. I’m not a morning person, however it’s worth catching the early morning domestic flights to Kavieng or Kimbe Bay. Waiting at the domestic terminal gave me time to check out the fashion trends of the locals; almost all men carry woven bags, while the women wear colourful floral-patterned dresses! I'm amazed by how friendly the locals are, and there's no communication barrier as English is one of the official languages in Papua New Guinea.
Once our domestic flight arrived in Kaveing, it took just 20 minutes by boat to reach the remote private island – Lissenung Island Resort. With a maximum of 16 guests staying at this hidden gem, personal service is guaranteed. The owner, Dietmar, welcomed us with his two dogs and helped everyone off the boat, as there was no jetty for landing. Just as advertised, the moment I arrived on the island, I began my barefoot vacation. Surrounded by coconut palms and a white sandy beach, the island looks almost the same as it did 30 years ago when Dietmar and Ange first started running this small resort.
Dietmar is also a dive instructor and he took me out to Danny Bommie and Albatross Passage, two of the local dive sites. Kavieng is famous for its channel dive and action-packed marine life, however it’s not just the schooling barracuda, dogtooth tuna, whitetip sharks, sweetlips and jacks that impressed me. I was also surprised to find longnose hawkfish, pygmy seahorses, leaf scorpionfish and ghost pipefish.
After diving, there's little better than a big feast, and the resort’s chef did an excellent job despite the remote location. All resort guests gather to enjoy homemade cuisine at a communal table, and Dietmar and Ange often join the guests to mingle every evening. Coconut crabs, crayfish, shellfish, sea grapes and tuna are just a few of the seafood delicacies you can find at Lissenung. All of these homemade dishes and the warm hospitality definitely made it feel like home.
Dietmar also shares his passion for the privately funded Turtle Conservation Project. If you're travelling during the nesting season, I highly recommend visiting the neighbouring islands to check for the newly laid nests with the team. This will help you understand the immense effort they put into educating the local communities and protecting the environment.
Rich Biodiversity - Walindi Plantation Resort
As I arrived at the final stop on my Papua New Guinea adventure, I was met with a warm welcome from the owner Cecilie and her son Cheyne. Walindi Plantation Resort isn't just a family resort, but a place they call home. “It's our life's work and an investment of time, finances, passion and focused mental and physical effort,” said Cecilie. In 2023 they celebrated 40 years of operation.
From local wood carvings on the pillars and tropical floral paintings at reception to the ocean view infinite pool and special daily vegan menu, this family has done their best to attend to every little detail to ensure their guests feel at home. The free daily laundry service is a pleasant surprise.
Not only is the dive boat named after her children, but the dive sites are as well. They're the pioneers in exploring the underwater tranquilities of this region. Just a few steps from my bungalow and the tropical garden, the dive boat 'Charmaine' was ready to take me to the outlying reefs and islands in the bay for diving. Bradford Shoal, Cecilie’s and Joelle’s are all isolated reefs that provide the perfect stage for fantastic fish action, including large school of barracuda, batfish, bigeye trevally, unicorn fish, mackerel, surgeonfish, damsels and fusiliers. And you don’t need to be lucky – it's quite common to see turtle or grey reef sharks here too.
In between the dives, not only was a full table of food waiting for me, but also a pod of dolphins. The captain set the nets on each side of the boat, and I grabbed my snorkel and mask, ready to dance with the dolphins. This might just have been the best moment on my Papua New Guinea adventure. What a way to end!
Last but not least, the land excursions also provide great memories to bring home, such as visiting a secret hot river, birdwatching, touring plantations and hiking volcanoes.
All in all, I found Papua New Guinea to be a destination full of wonder and intrigue, where warm, welcoming people and awe-inspiring landscapes give way to incredible underwater riches. I couldn't recommend it enough for your next big dive adventure.
If you've been inspired by Jobi's diving experience in Papua New Guinea, check out our Papua New Guinea trip ideas, or contact us so we can help you plan your dream adventure.
