St Helena Island: The Atlantic's Best Kept Diving Secret
As we approach St Helena, the island rises from the ocean seemingly out of nowhere. It is an amazing sight to see. From Johannesburg or Cape Town, you fly for approximately six hours over the Atlantic before this hidden gem appears. The airport has only been operating commercial flights since 2017. Previously you had to undertake a 5-day boat trip, so this really is an unspoilt and untouched diver’s paradise!
The view from above is nothing short of magical: lush, green landscapes blanket the island, contrasting with its dramatic volcanic formations. I am filled with excitement as the stage is set for the adventures that await us on this remote and captivating island. We arrive on Saturday evening and the harbour is full of life with little pop-up bars playing music and serving drinks.
We stayed in Jamestown: a small buzzing town with several places to eat and a few bars to relax in in the evening, the perfect base for a week’s diving!
St Helena is a small island with a population of just under 5,000. Initially discovered by the Portuguese in the 1500s, it was first inhabited by the British in 1659. History is everywhere on St Helena, although it is most famously known for being the island where Napoleon was exiled.
Though a British territory, Napoleon’s last residence, Longwood House, is a French property and is now home to four giant tortoises. One being Jonathan, who is currently 192 years old, holding the Guinness World Record as the oldest living land animal! We made a special visit to see them, which was the highlight of everyone's day. They are incredible, charming animals and can move much quicker than you might think!
Diving and whale shark encounters in St Helena
The highlight of St Helena is undoubtedly the diving. The beautiful blue, warm and clear waters have visibility for up to 40 metres. The island is also famed for encounters with whale sharks. We crossed our fingers and toes for a sighting!
For our first day of diving, we headed out to Long Ledge. We rolled in off the boat and the crystal-clear water expands below us. Long Ledge is a breathtaking area full of archways and swim-throughs which are teeming with marine life. The light streamed through the caverns, creating excellent opportunities for photography. The site was thriving with endemic species, only found in St Helena, including the hedgehog butterflyfish.
Image by St Helena Tourist Board
The following day, we all woke with a sense of anticipation. We grabbed our snorkelling gear as we headed out on the boat to look for whale sharks. The sun shone down on us and the water was clear and stunningly blue. Dolphins danced in the distance.
Suddenly, a whale shark rose from the depths. It’s astonishing how such a large animal can somehow sneak up on you. Even in clear water, they are concealed until they are almost at the surface. We slowly entered the water, gripped with excitement, as whale sharks swam around us, gliding effortlessly through the endless blue.
This was by far the best whale shark experience I have ever had. The whales seemingly stay with you forever; they do not swiftly leave when you are in their presence. We were the only boat on the water and St Helena’s strict marine laws mean the whale sharks here are unburdened by multiple boats or hordes of tourists.
After a while, we had to leave to go back to shore, so we waved our new friends goodbye. The atmosphere on the boat was electric; we were all beside ourselves with the magical experience we have just had.
Another diving day took us to the Frontier Wreck, a drug-running fishing boat which was confiscated and then scuttled in 1994. The wreck lies on its starboard side and is mainly intact, making for some great atmospheric photo opportunities.
The wreck was surrounded by an abundance of marine life, much like all of the dive sites in St Helena. The marine life here is very healthy.
We were heading back for our safety stop at the end of a brilliant dive when our dive is made even more special as we are met with another whale shark. Again, it stayed with us for some time, gliding through the water utterly unbothered by us. Despite their large size, whale sharks are perhaps the most gentle and elegant animals underwater.
As we headed to the surface, they continued to swim peacefully beneath us.
What other activities can you do on St Helena?
On the days you're not planning on diving, St Helena still has so much to offer. You can snorkel from the harbour to the wreck of the Papanui, show off your skills on the rope swings, or swim in the harbour. Or, if you would like to try some land-based activities, there are several fantastic walks and some more challenging hikes dotted all around the island. There are 21 Post Box Walks. These have postboxes at the end with a logbook where you can leave a note and a stamp to be collected. Coffee tours are a must do. St Helena’s coffee is famous worldwide, so make sure you pick yourself up a bag or two!
So, do I recommend St Helena as a holiday destination?
One of the most wonderful things about St Helena is the sense of community. Everyone here has multiple roles. The person who checks you in at the airport may have served you drinks the night before. This creates a welcoming atmosphere, making you feel like part of the family from the moment you arrive.
I can honestly say St Helena is one of the friendliest places I have ever visited. The Saints, as the locals are known, are welcoming, fun, and full of laughter. They truly make St Helena the wonderful place it is.
Put this hidden gem at the top of your bucket list!
To book your St Helena diving holiday, please get in touch with our expert dive team.
