Raja Ampat- Life on board the Dewi Nusantara

Raja Ampat certainly lived up to its reputation as one of the premier, pristine coral reef diving destinations in the world.  We saw some incredible marine life including plenty of sharks; white-tip, black-tip, grey reef and of course the enigmatic wobbegong. We also stumbled across the endemic epaulette shark, infamous for the way it ‘walks’ along the reef with its fins.  Encounters with enormous mantas - oceanic and reef - were met with a smile, and the most special dive sites during our trip simply had to be Magic Mountain and Melissa’s Garden with so many huge schools of fish - a pure delight!  If you’re a fan of sea-fans then you won’t be disappointed with the reefs and walls at most of the sites in Raja Ampat. The macro life was also very good; we saw a number of different pygmies during the trip and a host of tiny crabs, shrimp and the occasional octopus.  For the critter enthusiast I’d be inclined to suggest that you’d find more diversity with more regularity in the waters of Alor (another Indonesian archipelago) but I’m probably splitting orangutan crab hairs somewhat.

Enough about the diving, we all know it has a world class reputation.

As for the experience on board the Dewi Nusantara, I have no hesitation in suggesting that this too is nothing short of world class.

From the moment we were enthusiastically greeted by the crew upon our arrival, and later learned would be greeted in the same fashion after each and every dive (a total of 36 being possible during an 11 night trip) it was plain to see from the outset that this boat is something very special indeed.  She is beautifully breathtaking and would become a joy to admire when returning from our dives in the days that followed.  Hand built as a one off project, the Dewi Nusantara is a 58 metre wooden three mast American schooner.  The decor has been tastefully considered in every possible way and the en suite cabins (of which there are nine in total) are as luxurious as they are spacious; 20 square metres no less! Peeking inside the master cabin first hand was nothing short of jaw dropping. At 46 square metres it spans the entire width of the rear of the boat with a standalone bath in addition to the shower and spectacular panoramic views.  I’ve never seen anything quite like it on a liveaboard. 

Every crew member went above and beyond; nothing was too much trouble, and a special mention should be made of Hendrik who ensured specific drinks were made for specific guests at the specific time that they liked them, without being asked, and with effortless class - a thoughtful touch that made each guest feel special.  The evening meals were delicious with the first three nights setting an impressively high standard.  Fillet steak on day one, followed by sushi on day two and lobster the night after that.  After a pre-dive grazing breakfast of fruit, toast, coffee and cereals, the a la carte breakfast was made to order and ready after the first dive of the day. If you wanted five eggs on your Nasi Goreng, the chef would gladly oblige- my dive buddy tested this premise most mornings.  I would discover first hand that smoked salmon and poached eggs with countless rashers of crispy bacon was also no trouble.  

The guides on board were excellent, knowledgeable and most of all it was plain to see that they really wanted all of us to have a great time.  The experience of our cruise director, Wendy Brown, was unquestionable and she expertly strikes the perfect balance of being friendly and affable and at the same time professional - we could tell we were in very good hands indeed.  Care and attention was taken with planning the dive sites providing thorough briefings and conducting entry procedures so we never felt crowded underwater.  The fact that we were cruising outside of what is generally considered ‘peak season’ also contributed to lack of divers in the water (read Mat's article dispelling the myths of low season in Raja Ampat). 

The neck and shoulder massages after every dive should be compulsory at every resort and on every liveaboard, I will miss them immensely.  That’s right…you read that correctly.  After each and every dive once you’ve had time to get out of your wetsuit and enjoy a drink that’s already waiting for you, two of the crew are ready with your personal towel (different to your room towel and different again to your deck towel) to give you a two minute massage.  Well why not? 

The attention to detail and small gestures all contribute to an experience that I have struggled to find fault with.  A Baileys hot chocolate after a night-dive? Of course. Two different evening meal times to accommodate the non-night divers. Indeed. I even particularly enjoyed the shower gel in the bathrooms; it had an oily feel to it and smelt great.  Getting showered and ready after the final dive in the evening was a joy and not something to be rushed as is often the case in a typical cramped cabin bathroom. Small things. They matter.

I’ll sum up with the words I used when my colleagues asked me about my trip.

“I’m hanging up my fins!” I said.

“To dive again any other way would be akin to flying first class with Singapore Airlines only to revert back to economy on a budget airline…unimaginable!”

I jest of course, but the bar has now been set very high indeed.

Thanks to everyone on the Dewi Nusantara.

Raja Ampat- I will be back.

To plan your very own luxury liveaboard trip to Raja Ampat on board the Dewi Nusantara, speak to our expert Dive team today.