Cat Island’s Sensational Shark Diving

Arriving late afternoon on Cat Island I’m met by local Danson King who offers me a warm welcome. As we head south Danson gives me a mini-tour of the sights and shares some of the history of the island. Watching the scenery pass by it becomes clear just how undeveloped the island is, seeming positively deserted at times. An impression that is strongly reinforced by abandoned 300-year-old plantation buildings dotting the island.

Following a hand-painted sign, we turn down a dirt road to Greenwood Beach Resort and I start to get a real sense of the attraction of Cat Island. This slightly kitschy but charming resort, sporting 16 rooms and a large bar/dining area, is located on a completely deserted and absolutely stunning stretch of beach.

Dinner is an informal and laid-back affair with good food and company. I get to chat with the managers, Pauline and Antoine, and some of the guests. Inevitably our talk turns to the oceanic whitetips, the star attraction for divers visiting at this time of year, and the goal of tomorrow's diving.

In the morning I meet up with Lewis, Nick and Caroline who have also signed up for this shark diving adventure. During breakfast our excitement is definitely starting to build. Following a short drive to the boat we load up our gear. Nick and Caroline spot my yellow fins and nudge each other. “Yum yum yellow” they exclaim together, before telling me that some people believe sharks are attracted to the bright colour.

Once on board the boat we are in the very capable hands of Lili and Drew, both experienced shark wranglers, and our guides for the day as we head about 30 minutes offshore of Cat Island. When they judge we have reached a good spot Drew begins to chum the water with some of the fish that they brought along. We are relying on the sharks' keen sense of smell to bring them right to the boat, and so we settle in to patiently wait for them to arrive… and then we wait some more.

Sensing our growing unease Lili jumps in the water and starts slapping the surface with one of her fins, the idea being to mimic a fish struggling on the surface and hopefully get the attention of any passing sharks. This also seems to fail to produce any sharks, and I’m now starting to grow a bit more nervous. What if they decide not to show up today and the trip turns into a bust… gulp.

Lili tells us she has one last trick, and fills up the now slightly funky cooler of fish bits to make a slurry which she tips over the side of the boat. I catch a good whiff of this concoction and have to move quickly upwind. I don’t normally get seasick but one more whiff could just be enough to set me off.

A couple of minutes later Lewis casually says “Lili there’s a shark behind you”. The delivery is so deadpan that nobody reacts. “No really” he says… we all look this time and a cheer erupts as we spot the dorsal fin with its distinctive white tip.

Drew sets up a bait box and lowers it over the side while Lili gets us sat in the front of the boat for our briefing. “Whitetips are very interactive” she tells us, “and they will come very close to you”. As we are all photographers she gives us a stern warning about not keeping heads buried in our camera viewfinders, “keep your wits about you, and your eyes peeled as they will approach you from behind.”

When the safety briefing is done, we kit up and splash in. Our cameras are passed down and we descend the line before spreading out to take up our positions. Lili wasn’t kidding; these sharks really do come close to us, repeatedly passing by within touching distance. The adrenalin starts pumping for real now and I realise I’m breathing hard and need to take a second to slow it down.

They are so graceful and beautiful as they glide effortlessly though the water, it’s mesmerising to watch them as they circle and pass, circle and pass, again and again. They make head-on approaches, and then veer off to the left or right before circling back; it seems the sharks are more than happy to pose for our cameras.

Mindful of our briefing I stay vertical in the water, turning left and right to try and keep and eye out for approaching sharks. There are now so many sharks in the water that I’m finding it hard to keep track of them all.

One individual, readily distinguished by her ragged dorsal fin, really does seem to be drawn to my yum yum yellow fins. She passes underneath me again and again, almost brushing the fins. She stays with me for the entire dive, repeatedly coming by for close passes, and clearly giving me a good eyeballing each time she moves past.

All too soon, as our gas supplies dwindle, the signal goes around to end the dive, and we reluctantly make our way back to the boat for some lunch and our surface interval before getting to repeat this amazing shark experience one more time.

Cat Island certainly lived up to its reputation as the best place to see these magnificent creatures and I’m already planning a trip back next year to see them again.

And yes, I will be bringing my yum yum yellow fins with me.

Contact the dive team to arrange your tailor-made shark diving adventure on Cat Island - you won't be disappointed!